Day 6 of Leh Ladakh trip
Some mornings are just different—they carry a thrill you can feel in your bones. This was one of those mornings! Today, I was finally setting out on a journey I had dreamed about since high school, when I first heard of Khardung La, then the highest motorable road in the world. Over the years, new roads have climbed higher, but Khardung La remains legendary. The dream grew stronger with every biker story, documentary, and picture I came across.
And today, it was happening.
After a hearty breakfast at our hotel (the kind you know you’ll miss for the rest of the day), we hit the road. Our destination? The mighty Khardung La, with plans to go further to the magical Nubra Valley, visit Diskit monastery and then to Thang—the last Indian village before Pakistan.
The Road to Khardung La: Where Dreams Begin
We started our journey with a quick fuel stop in Leh and began the climb toward the pass. The road twisted and turned, revealing jaw-dropping views at every corner.
The lush green valleys of Leh stretched out below us, with the majestic Stok Range standing guard to the left and the distant Markha Valley teasing us with its untouched beauty. The Markha Valley, a renowned trekking destination, revealed glimpses of villages that have preserved their way of life for centuries.
Every moment on this road felt like stepping into a painting. I couldn’t help but marvel at how the landscape seemed to change with every kilometer, each views more mesmerizing than the last.
Khardung La: A Dream Realized
As we ascended to Khardung La, a signpost cheerfully proclaimed, “You are driving up the highest motorable pass in the world, not a short-cut to heaven.” The quirky, inspiring road signs kept us entertained while reminding us of the care required on these steep, winding roads.
Built in 1976 and opened to motor traffic in 1988, Khardung La has long served as a crucial supply route to the Siachen Glacier, a strategic military zone. Once part of a historic caravan route, it has seen centuries of trade and travel by horses and camels.
The pass is adorned with Buddhist stupas and vibrant prayer flags that dance in the chilly mountain winds, adding a spiritual aura to the rugged beauty of the landscape.
While the dream of standing at Khardung La was realized, it wasn’t without challenges. The pass was crowded with excited travelers scrambling for photos, making it a bit chaotic. A little “crowd control” was necessary before we managed to capture a few memorable shots.
The Dream
Did I mention there’s a café at Khardung La? Yes, it’s basic, but sipping a hot drink at 17,982 feet feels like a luxury you’ll never forget.
The destination ahead and beyond
The Descent into Nubra Valley: A Landscape Like No Other
The descent from Khardung La brought us into a new world of stark beauty. The barren mountains and valleys painted a dramatic picture against the clear blue sky. Looking back toward the summit, clouds hovered above snow-speckled peaks, creating an awe-inspiring scene.
Shortly after leaving Khardung La, we found a fast-flowing stream across the cutting the road, locally called a nullah, fed by glacial melt from the upper reaches. It felt like nature’s way of refreshing weary travelers.
Roads were non existent in many places.
After driving for more than 2 hours we crossed North Pullu. There were few houses and shops around the road. After climbing down and reaching an altitude of approx 3,200 meters, my stomach starting growling because I was hungry.
We took another break on the way as heights were getting us headaches and much-needed rest.
A quick snack turned into a lovely little break, where we chatted with locals and even lent a hand to an older couple feeling the effects of altitude. Moments like these remind you that travel isn’t just about destinations—it’s about the connections you make along the way.
Entering Nubra Valley: A Magical Transformation
As we moved closer to the Nubra Valley landscape started changing.
Finally, I saw some greenery after a long drive near Siachen Turtuk. Surrounded by high mountains Nubra Valley is one of the most fertile regions of Ladakh.
Now we were driving on a road, which has a high mountain on one side and a river fast flowing on the other side.
Then, as if out of nowhere, sand dunes appeared! Yes, sand dunes, right in the middle of this Himalayan wonderland.
By the time we reached Hunder village, I felt like I was in a different world. The contrast of the golden dunes, green meadows, and towering mountains was simply surreal.
Diskit Monastery
Perched atop a rocky hill, Diskit Monastery came into view like a guardian watching over the valley.
The monastery, one of the oldest in the region, exudes tranquility. Its iconic 32-meter-tall Maitreya Buddha statue overlooks the valley, a symbol of peace and protection.
Exploring the monastery, we were captivated by its prayer halls, adorned with intricate murals and ancient scriptures.
The atmosphere was serene, broken only by the occasional sound of fluttering prayer flags. A view from the top is amazing
The belief and ritual where you stack the rocks bring fortune to the person
The Final Stop: Thang Village and the Border Cafe & Camp
Our journey didn’t end here. We pressed on to Thang village, the last Indian settlement before the Pakistan border, brimming with excitement at being so close to the frontier. However, as night fell, our adventure took an unexpected turn.
The darkness made navigation tricky, and our GPS, struggling with limited connectivity, led us astray. At one point, we found ourselves lost in the wilderness, jokingly wondering, “Wait, are we in Pakistan?” We drove back and forth along the same stretch of road, searching for our accommodation, the Border Café and Camp, but the unlit paths were no help.
Just as we were beginning to feel a mix of nerves and exhaustion, headlights appeared in the distance. Although we were apprehensive about stopping strangers so close to the border, we mustered up our courage and flagged them down. Explaining our situation and the name of our stay, the kind locals reassured us and offered to lead the way.
Ten minutes later, a sense of relief washed over us as we spotted the faint glow of lights from a small village ahead. Our new friends pointed us toward our accommodation, and we waved a grateful thank-you as they drove off.
The host at the Border Café and Camp had been trying to contact us all evening but had struggled with the spotty network. He greeted us warmly, quickly showing us to the cozy tents. Within minutes, we were sipping on steaming hot kawa, the traditional Kashmiri tea. It was easily the best tea I’ve had in years, and at that moment, it felt like liquid gold.
Dinner was a simple, hearty meal served under the stars—a perfect end to a long, adventurous day. With full bellies and warm hearts, we finally said goodnight, ready to rest and dream about the adventures still to come.
Here is the route for Day 6
Lessons on this highway
- Fuel station is only at Khalsar after last one from Leh. With limited options you can expect very long queue in fuel station. We got close to 45 minutes wait.
- Food is plenty at North Pullu and small tuck shops at Khardung
- Toilets are limited on the way, so nature will be your best friend or plan accordingly
- The altitude is close to 18000 ft, if anyone with altitude problem, best to have medicines before the trip after consulting the doctor.
- Night driving can be nightmare with deep valleys, sharp turns, bad road and lastly weather. So plan for unexpected events and start early as much as you can and go slow. GPS and phone connection is patchy, plan with offline maps and make calls whenever you get a chance. You never know when is your next chance.
Looking back, this trip was everything I’d hoped for and more. From the thrill of reaching Khardung La to the serenity of Nubra Valley, and the heartfelt moments in Thang, every part of this journey felt like a dream come true.
