Day 9 of Leh Ladakh trip
We set off from Pangong Tso after a hearty breakfast, with a grand plan to reach Hanle by evening. We had no prior booking, so the goal was simple—arrive early and secure a stay.
Morning by the Lake: When Pangong Wouldn’t Let Go
But travel in Ladakh has its own script, and our plans were quickly swept away by the sheer beauty surrounding us. The first few kilometers felt like a slow-motion movie. The lake simply refused to let us go. Every curve in the road revealed yet another breathtaking angle—the mirrored stillness of Pangong’s blue waters, framed by snow-capped mountains, clouds drifting lazily above, and reflections so perfect they felt unreal.
We stopped for photos more times than we could count, each click failing to capture the magic our eyes could see.
The Road That Wasn’t a Road
Soon, the smooth tarmac gave way to rough reality. No roads, endless detours, and sections where the path had been washed away entirely. For the first time, we got truly stuck—our car sank into loose gravel, wheels spinning helplessly.
As fate would have it, we were in a small village, and the people there proved once again how remote places often have the warmest hearts. A few locals came forward, pushed the car free, and even guided us back onto the correct route.
From there, it was hours of driving on loose sand tracks, sharing the trail only with the occasional military convoy or a rare local vehicle. By 10 AM, the sight of tarmac felt like a blessing, even if it was narrow enough for just one vehicle.
A Detour into History – Rezang La War Memorial
When we reached Chushul, a conversation with locals changed our day.
They suggested visiting Rezang La War Memorial, and we couldn’t resist. Little did we know we were in for another bone-rattling, no-road drive.
By 11:30 AM, we arrived at the memorial. Soldiers welcomed us with warm smiles, sharing tips and stories about the museum, the battles, and the heroes who fought here.
Standing on that ground was humbling—it’s impossible not to feel deep respect for the soldiers who defended these icy heights in the Battle of Rezang La during the 1962 Indo-China war.
The memorial honors the bravery of Major Shaitan Singh and his men, who fought to the last bullet in sub-zero conditions, outnumbered but unbroken. The sacrifice here is legendary—120 soldiers fought against thousands, and almost all were martyred. The site still echoes with their courage.
Before leaving, I bought a fridge magnet from the small souvenir shop, etched with the words “Last Man Standing”. It felt like the perfect tribute to carry home.
Back on the Road – Streams, Clouds, and Loneliness
From Rezang La, we pushed toward Hanle, crossing streams where there were no bridges and navigating endless barren lands. Rocky plains stretched into the horizon, clouds gathered above, and we silently prayed the rain would hold off. A slight drizzle followed us, but thankfully it didn’t turn the tracks into mud traps.
Near a check post, our permits were verified before we entered one of the loneliest sections of our journey. For miles, it was just us, the mountains, and the wind.
A Flat Tire and Thin Air
By the time we reached Loma and cleared the next check post, our car had endured enough—and showed it with a flat tire. We drove a little further toward a military camp to feel safer while changing it.
That’s when I realized just how thin the air was here. Every breath felt heavier, and even a simple tire change turned into slow, deliberate work. With only one spare left, we decided to get the punctured tire fixed at the first chance.
Thankfully, the road improved, winding alongside a tributary of the Indus River, with small villages offering comfort after so much emptiness.
Finally, Hanle – and a Stroke of Luck
By 5:30 PM, the sight of Hanle village was pure relief. But our relief was short-lived—every place we knocked at was full. A large biker group, GOAT (Greatest of All Time), was touring the region and had booked out almost every stay.
After an hour of searching, someone directed us to Holiday Inn, Hanle, which was closed for renovations and due to reopen in a week. On a whim, we walked over—and luck smiled. The owners greeted us warmly and agreed to host us. We had the place to ourselves, with brand-new rooms, hot water, and the kind of hospitality that makes you feel at home.
A mechanic nearby helped fix our tire, ticking off one more worry from the list.
Under Hanle’s Famous Dark Skies
Hanle is renowned worldwide for its dark skies and is home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, one of the highest in the world at a height of 4,500 meters (14,764 feet).
Operated by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, it houses the 2-meter Himalayan Chandra Telescope and plays a major role in global space research.
The site was chosen for its exceptionally clear skies, minimal light pollution, and dry air—conditions that make it a world-class astronomical hub. While access inside is limited, simply standing nearby under the vast Changthang sky is enough to understand why scientists chose this location.
Stargazing and Astrophotography in Hanle
The real magic happens after the sun dips behind the mountains. Hanle is one of the darkest places in India, making it a dream for stargazers and astro photographers. On clear nights, the Milky Way stretches overhead like a shimmering river of light.
If you’re planning to capture it, here are some quick tips:
- Best Time: April to October, ideally around the new moon.
- Gear: DSLR or mirrorless camera, wide-angle lens (14–24mm, f/2.8 or lower), and a sturdy tripod.
- Settings: ISO 3200–6400, aperture wide open, shutter speed 15–25 seconds.
- Apps: Tools like PhotoPills or Stellarium help track the Milky Way’s position.
- Location: Move away from village lights for a full 360° view—around the observatory or the open plains is perfect.
- Extra Tip: Keep spare batteries warm in your pocket; the cold drains them fast.
That night, I set up my camera to capture an open view of the unlimited stars, guided by PhotoPills, and watched the Milky Way slowly emerge. For a while, the sky was perfect—every star sharp and alive.
But nature had the last word—clouds soon rolled in, hiding the stars. I packed up, content with the shots I got, and turned in for the night, ready for the next day’s challenge: Umling La, the highest motorable pass in the world.
Final thoughts and tips
Travel Tip: Staying in Hanle
Hanle may be small, but it’s a special place—and it comes with a few important considerations for travelers.
If you’re a non-Indian citizen, be aware that there are restrictions on staying in Hanle. You must have the proper permits, and you’ll need to know exactly where you are allowed to stay within the region. Always check the latest regulations before your trip.
For everyone, keep in mind that accommodations here are limited and fill up quickly—especially when large groups or biking tours pass through. Plan well in advance to secure your stay.
We were plain lucky to find a place to sleep the night we arrived. Without a booking, we had almost given up hope until a kind local family offered us a spot in their homestay. It was a reminder that in remote Ladakh, preparation is important—but sometimes a bit of luck and warm hospitality will carry you through.
Travel Tip: Fuel
There is no fuel station in between; always carry extra fuel. You can get fuel from villagers at premium rates; however, there is no guarantee of quality.
Here is the route for Day 9
If anyone to stay in Holiday Inn here is the link
Day 8 of Leh Ladakh trip – Pangong Tso’s Magic : An Epic Road Into the Blue
